Laura Gabbert’s wide-ranging documentary ostensibly profiles Jonathan Gold, the Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic for the Los Angeles Times who specializes in hole-in-the-wall ethnic restaurants and street food. Gold was an early booster of such on-the-margins cuisine, and likely had a hand in making it de rigueur for the contemporary foodie. And, as he explains, Los Angeles is unique and fertile ground, a place that both encourages cross-fertilization between cuisines and is big enough that smaller authentic fare can stay isolated and pure. In the film, Gold addresses the role of the critic (he isn’t anonymous); the camera pops into some of his favorite haunts; and chefs and other food writers weigh in on his influence. It’s tasty enough for the food-obsessed (the street tacos alone!), but the scattershot approach might leave others still hungry for more.